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2006.12.13

ポレポーレ・キリマンジャロ登山

子供の頃からのあこがれであったアフリカ大陸、そして中年になってからの夢だったアフリカ最高峰のキリマンジャロ。上げ膳据え膳の殿様旅行のおかげで楽しんで登れました。以下は主な行程です。

12/1 23:00 中部国際空港発、エミレーツ航空の機内はきれい
12/2 6:10 ドバイ空港着(飛行時間12時間/時差5時間)なんと砂漠で雨ではないか!
10:36 ドバイ発・エミレーツ航空
15:23 ナイロビ空港着、いよいよアフリカだがそれほど暑くない
16:35 現地ガイドの大森氏出迎え、マイクロバスで空港発 途中で夕焼けを見る
19:32~52 ケニヤ/タンザニア国境
21:45 アリューシャのホテル着/遅い夕食

12/3 8:27 マイクロバスで出発、不要な荷物は預けて11人+添乗員+大森氏+ガイド+サブガイド6人+ポーター・コック27人の総勢47人だがポーターコックは先行するので20人、それにしても大部隊だ。
10:25 登山口のマラングゲート(1800m)着、登山準備、必要以上にポレポレ(ゆっくり)進む。サルオガセに覆われた森林、珍しい動植物で興奮する。途中2回スコール
15:50 マンダラハット(2720m)着、ビールあと回し、散歩だという。
16:42 出発 マウンジクレーターを一周(登り100mちょっと)素晴らしい散歩道だった。
17:48 着 ビールは売り切れ・・・大森氏紹介の焼酎?を飲む、夕方ウイスキー少々

12/4 8:28 発 ポレポレ、巻き道ばかりで景色変わらず、山の大きさを実感。途中はセネシア・ロベリア・プロテア等いかにもアフリカ的な植物を見ながらの道で退屈せず。
16:13 ホロンボハット(3720m)着、今日はすぐビール⇒1本だけ、ウイスキー少々

12/5 高度馴化&休養日
 この日朝からダイアモックスを飲む。靴下・下着も山用に変え真剣モードに。
9:05出発 呼吸の練習をしながら少し登る。
10:19~53 ゼブラロック(約4000m)、本当にシマウマのような模様のある岩だ。
11:39 ホロンボハットに戻る。再びコニャギ(焼酎)を飲み、ウイスキー少々 午後は休養、雪のキリマンジャロを眺めながら「キリマンジャロの雪」を読む、これが夢だった。

12/6 8:01発 途中で草も少なくなり砂漠を歩きサドル(鞍部)を過ぎる。ここで食べたランチは旨かった。(同意見あり)この日は入山以来始めて終日晴れた。
14:35キボハット(4700m)着、明日は0時発なので、早めの夕食後準備を済ませて仮眠、ヘッドランプの電池を新品に交換。部屋に緊張感が漲っている。
23:14起床、紅茶とビスケットをつまんで出発準備(荷物はテルモスと衣類、カメラ程度)

12/7(ややくどくなりますが実況中継風に。温度・高度は私の測定で誤差あり)
0:02 出発、他のパーティーも一斉に出るようだ。月夜で明るい。
-2℃位
0:34 4810m、足元に雪らしきものが出てきた。これからは未体験の高度だ。
0:54 4890m、一息入れ、水分補給と深呼吸
1:34 5000m、左の岩に白い雪が点々、足元には白いティッシュが点々。
1:41 5010m、大きな岩の陰で休む。
2:21 5140m 向こう側にうっすら見えるマウエンジー峰とほぼ同じ高さだ。やや急になる。
2:36 5190m 岩穴のような場所で休憩、水分補給
3:09 5260m 小雪が舞っている、おかげで気温はそれほど低くなく軍手でOK
3:28 5300m越え、頭の中の酸素が少なくなったような感じがするが足は重くない、周りの人は歩調がやや乱れ気味。
3:57 雪というより氷晶のようだ、視界は霧で良くないがおかげで温度は極端に低くないが -5℃位。オーバー手袋をはめる。軽い荷物だがガイドが次々と引き受けて負担を軽くしている。
4:17 5460m 足元は雪道になったが、少し霧が晴れ稜線がちらりと見えた。
4:36 5510m、また雪が降ってきた、ちょっと岩場っぽくなっていよいよ稜線か。
5:37 ギルマンズポイント5682m着、とりあえず頂稜の一部である。ここまでは全員来られた、良かった。右手は雪の斜面となっており火口底は見えないが、火口壁という事はわかる。頂上は満員、数十人いて狭い。
5:54 元気ある人は出発、最高点のウフルピークへ向かう。すっかり雪道で岩木山(青森)の鳥海から山頂へ行く道みたいだ。右手のスロープを見て「滑りたいなあ」などど冗談を言いながら進む。
7:10 山頂手前でガイドが左を指差し「グレイシャー」霧で霞んでいるのが残念だが氷河の頭がうっすら見える。呼吸が浅く・速くなっているのがわかる。後続の人、山頂から戻る人の顔が青白い。自分の顔を聞いたら「少し出てるね」と言われた。
7:24 万歳、やっとウフルピーク5895mだ。それほどの高度障害も出ず無事に来られた。景色は見えず、火口から吹き上げる風が冷たいが握手、そしてガイドと抱擁する。次々と後続の仲間が到着、写真を撮りあう。
7:40 下山開始、天気もややましになり稜線漫歩の気分である。
8:30 ギルマンズポイントに戻る、「ギルマンズポイントに戻りましたア」ボイスレコーダーに吹き込む声も間延びしさすがに疲労が出たようだ。
8:39 下山開始、雪の詰まった道を慎重におりるが途中から砂走りのような所に出た。慎重に下っている人もいるがガイドの真似をして走るように下ると「そのまま行け」と言われ、一人先行してしまった。それにしても我々及び同宿の日本人は高齢だが、外人パーティーは若い。遠足気分なのかも知れないなあ。
9:39 キボハット着、小雨模様。途中ギルマンズポイントから引き返した3人がベッドで休んでいた。
やがて後続部隊も到着、途中で疲れた人も元気に降りてきて一安心。寝袋その他の荷物をまとめてポーターに託して下山開始。4700mの高度で留まるよりは苦しくても降りてしまった方が安全、という事で深夜に出発したのだ。
11:25 下山開始、霧雨なので上着は来たままで歩くが降るようで降らず、晴れるようで晴れない。砂漠地帯の地表付近を霧が走っている。向うから突然 ヌッと頭に荷物を載せたポーターが現れる。映画の1シーンみたいだ。
12:14~33 4300m、サドル付近で休憩、前日同様に首の白いカラスとシマネズミ?が走り回る。
13:33~32 ラストウォーターポイントで休憩
14;24 ホロンボハット着、ほっと一息、待望のビールだ。
夕方は再度ビールで乾杯。

12/8
8:12 下山開始、昨夜はたっぷり寝た。今日も途中から雨になったがかまわず下る。途中動物の糞を見つけた。大森さんは「ジャッカル」だと言う。
マンダラハット(2720m)手前で「ハイラックス!」と言う声で見ると「ツリーハイラックス」がこちらを向いて木の枝に止まってる。写真もバッチリ。日本名イワダヌキだがクジラの遠縁にあたると昔読んだ記憶がある。
11:30~12:14 マンダラハットで休憩・昼食、私はこっそりコニャギの水割りを。実は登りで泊った時、何回もコニャギ(焼酎)を買いに行ったので売店のアンチャンが私の顔を見るなり100cc入りの袋を2ケ持ってくる。「これは1ケで良い」と手で示すが引っ込めず口に指を当てて「シークレット」と言う。ハハンと納得し、一袋($1)おごってあげた。
マラングゲートが近くなると私のボイスレコーダーを貸せと言う。渡すとサブガイドが歌ってくれた。これは素晴らしい記念になる。ゲートまで何時間という標識が目に付くようになると「山も終わりだなあ」と寂しさがこみ上げてくる。
14:33 マラングゲート着
記念写真、買い物のあと丸い建物に入り、ガイドから登頂証明書の授与、ポーターへのチップ手渡し、ガイドとの握手などのセレモニーのあと、なんと私の誕生祝いのケーキを出してきてくれた。これには感激、思わず熱いものがこみ上げて来てしまった。
生涯忘れられない誕生日になりました。
Img_1153マラングゲートでガイドのアローンを紹介される
Img_1167始めは樹林帯を進む
Img_1205コナン・ドイルの失われた世界を彷彿と
Img_1245マンダラハット、大きいのは食堂、脇の小さいのが就寝棟
Img_1303初めてキリマンジャロ・キボが見えた
Img_1322
Img_1493_1アフリカの満月と夜明け
Img_1349パルスオキシメーターで血中酸素濃度を毎日チェック
Img_1491朝陽を浴びたキリマンジャロ
Img_1502キリマンジャロ・マウエンジ5115m
Img_1531ゼブラ(縞馬)ロック
Img_1570残月とキリマンジャロ・キボ
Img_1620マウエンジ峰は岩山
Img_1630砂漠地帯から望むキリマンジャロ
Img_1640サドル付近の砂漠地帯
Img_1670キボハットで登頂前にサブガイド全員があらためて紹介される
Img_1679雪の中をギルマンズポイントへと向かう
Img_1686ギルマンズポイント5682m
Img_1690更に最高点のウフルピークを目指す
Img_1692ウフルピーク5895m
Img_1702ギルマンズポイントからの下り
Img_1714同じ日程だったケニヤのクリスと
Img_1832下山後の歌と踊り、テーブルに登頂証明書
Img_1834このバースデイケーキには感激しました

   

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